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The science behind Chicatella

We don’t just add moisture. We stand in for the barrier.

From the microbiome to occlusion: what’s really going on with very dry, cracked, eczema-prone skin, and why moisturizing often falls short. Every fact on this page links to a peer-reviewed source.

01 · Barrier 02 · Why moisturizing falls short 03 · Occlusion 04 · Formula 05 · Microbiome 06 · Evidence
01 · The skin barrier

Your skin is a wall, not a sponge.

The top layer of your skin, the epidermis, works like a wall of cells and fats that keeps water in and irritants out. Scientists measure how well that wall seals with transepidermal water loss (TEWL): the amount of water that quietly evaporates through the skin, in grams per square meter per hour.

Low TEWL means a healthy, well-sealed barrier. When the barrier is damaged, TEWL goes up, the skin loses water and turns tight, flaky and irritated.↗︎

TEWL · water loss through the skin
Healthy barrierlow TEWL
Dry, irritated skinmoderate TEWL
Cracked, eczema-prone skinhigh TEWL
A schematic of the proportions. Damaged barrier = more water loss.↗︎
02 · Why moisturizing falls short

You can’t fill a bucket
that leaks.

Light creams add water to the surface. If the barrier leaks, that water simply evaporates.
What really changes the game is occlusion: a layer that physically seals the surface
and stops water loss while the skin underneath recovers.

Reduction in water loss (TEWL) by approach
No care~7 %
Light moisturizer~10 %
Occlusive layer (as with Chicatella)83%
Occlusive ingredients (for example, ≥ 5% petrolatum) can reduce transepidermal water loss by 83%; light, non-occlusive creams achieve much less. Values are summarized from the research literature and are illustrative.↗︎
03 · Occlusion in practice

A stand-in barrier, layer by layer.

Chicatella lays a flexible protective film on the skin that takes over the job of the skin’s moisture barrier until it can recover underneath.

EPIDERMIS · OUTER SKIN
DERMIS · INNER SKIN
CHICATELLA LAYER
STATE 01 · HEALTHY
EPIDERMIS
DERMIS
Healthy moisture barrier

An intact epidermis holds in moisture and keeps irritants out. The skin is calm and protects itself.

STATE 02 · WEAKENED
EPIDERMIS
DERMIS
Cracked barrier

Moisture escapes through the cracks and irritants get in. Adding moisture to an “open bucket” doesn’t help: the skin stays tight and irritated.

STATE 03 · PROTECTED
Chicatella
EPIDERMIS
DERMIS
Stand-in barrier

Chicatella lays down a flexible film that does the barrier’s job: moisture stays in, irritants don’t reach the skin, and the skin underneath can recover in peace.

A simplified illustration of how the skin barrier works, not a clinical measurement. Source: occlusion and TEWL↗︎
04 · Formula

Why oil and water
aren’t enough.

Most creams try to moisturize what can’t be moisturized: they mix water and oil in the same jar and use strong emulsifiers to force them to stay together. For a cracked barrier, that just isn’t the right approach.

The wrong way
Water + oil + emulsifiers

An emulsion only moisturizes the surface and breaks down quickly. The strong emulsifiers that hold water and oil together can loosen an already weakened barrier even more.

The right way
Gel + fat

Instead of an emulsion, we combine a gel and fats, the way the skin’s natural moisture barrier is built. The result is a flexible, occlusive seal that actually stands in for the barrier.

Three ingredients that stand in for the barrier
01
White petrolatum

Purified until completely neutral, formed from ancient organisms. It creates a flexible, occlusive seal that holds in moisture without irritating. Research on petrolatum itself has found that it raises the skin’s own barrier proteins (filaggrin and loricrin) and antimicrobial peptides (Czarnowicki et al., JACI 2016). That’s an ingredient-level finding, not a measured claim for our finished product.

02
Lanolin

The natural waxy protector in sheep’s wool. Just as it shields sheep from the weather, it softens and cares for the most cracked spots. Lanolin is both an emollient and an occlusive, and its makeup is close to the skin’s own lipids (Purnamawati et al., Clin Med Res 2017). Again, an ingredient-level finding from research, not a product claim.

03
Allantoin & bisabolol

Two botanical soothers (bisabolol comes from chamomile) that soothe the look of irritation and support the skin’s natural renewal.

Together they don’t just add moisture. They stand in for the barrier until your skin can rebuild it on its own.

And no… there’s nothing wrong with you. Your skin just needs the right ingredients and a little more love.

05 · Microbiome

The barrier gives way from the inside out.

Healthy skin is home to a diverse microbiome, billions of helpful microbes that help hold water and fats together and keep harmful species in check.↗︎

In eczema-prone skin this balance is thrown off. Diversity drops, and one species, Staphylococcus aureus, can take over. A less diverse microbiome means a leakier barrier, more water loss and more irritated, itchy skin, and the drop in diversity is linked to how severe the condition is.↗︎

That’s why we don’t just care for the surface. A calmer, protected environment lets the skin and its microbiome find their balance more easily.

Makeup of the skin microbiome
Healthy skin · high diversity
Eczema-prone skin in a flare-up · low diversity
S. AUREUS
helpful species S. aureus (pathogen)
A schematic of the makeup, not measured values. In eczema-prone skin, diversity drops and this one takes over: S. aureus.↗︎
The other half of the story · cleansing

Don’t wash away a healthy microbiome.

We all love that “squeaky clean” feeling after a shower. But that squeak is a sign we’ve washed off too much: along with the dirt, also the oils, enzymes and helpful bacteria that make up your skin’s protective moisture layer in the first place.

The fewer of these helpful microbes there are, the more room harmful bacteria and even molds get. They don’t hold on to water, so the barrier gets thinner, water evaporates and the trouble keeps coming back. That’s how the wrong kind of washing puts you back at square one every day.

What’s left on the skin after washing
SKIN
Healthy layer
Oils and helpful microbes hold in moisture.
WASHED OFF ✕
SKIN
After regular soap
Oils and microbes washed off, the barrier weakens.
A schematic. That “squeaky” feeling means the protective layer has been stripped.
How activated charcoal cleanses
▲ IMPURITIES INTO THE CHARCOAL’S PORES
SKIN
porous charcoal impurities oil + microbes
The charcoal’s tiny pores trap impurities, while the protective layer and microbes stay put.
The fix · activated charcoal

Cleans away impurities, keeps the barrier.

That’s why our cleansing isn’t built on soap but on activated charcoal. Its surface is porous, full of tiny holes that trap impurities, without stripping the oils, enzymes and microbes your skin needs.

Standing in for the barrier, and not wrecking it every day: only together do they make the whole story.

Activated charcoal is the base of our SOS Shampoo and SOS Body Wash.
06 · What the research shows

Occlusive care has measurable effects.

The values below come from independent dermatology studies on occlusive and cosmetic care, not from our own research and not from Chicatella products. They show what this kind of approach can do.

−36.7%
water loss (TEWL) after 14 days↗︎
−70.4%
eczema severity score (EASI), 28 days↗︎
70%
of patients with less flaking↗︎
3 weeks
of occlusion for a better barrier↗︎
Our research

And what Chicatella shows on real skin

An independent user study with 127 people with atopic dermatitis (2026) and 3,415 customer reviews.

83%
report calmer, more comfortable skin
3 days
to calmer-looking skin
4.7/5
3,415 reviews
78%
would recommend it
From science to the jar

How we turn that principle into a product

01
A rich, occlusive formula

Thick and nourishing on purpose. It stays on the skin and forms a flexible stand-in barrier instead of evaporating.

02
8 hard-working ingredients

A short, carefully chosen list. The full list is on the jar, with no secret blends and no known irritants.

03
Microbiome-friendly

Creates a calmer environment where the skin and its microbiome can find their balance more easily.

04
Tested on sensitive skin

Dermatologically tested on truly sensitive skin, under the supervision of a specialist dermatologist.

See the products
Sources & references
Every fact above links to its source.
01 Moisturizers — StatPearls (NIH). Occlusion, emollients and TEWL. ↗︎ 02 Artificial reduction in TEWL improves barrier. Occlusion improves the barrier. PubMed ↗︎ 03 Cosmetic formulation for infantile AD. TEWL −36.7%, EASI −70.4%. PMC (NIH) ↗︎ 04 The microbiome in atopic dermatitis. Loss of diversity and disease severity. JACI ↗︎ 05 Skin microbiome of atopic dermatitis. Dysbiosis and dominance of S. aureus. PubMed ↗︎ 06 Role of the skin microbiome in AD. Systematic review. PubMed ↗︎
Chicatella is cosmetic care, not a medicine. The studies cited describe general dermatology principles of occlusion and the microbiome, and the ingredient findings for petrolatum and lanolin come from research on those ingredients; none of them are clinical trials of Chicatella products. For diagnosis and treatment, talk to your doctor.